Fulfilling social needs through well-made products: TEIXIDORS assimilates and ICEBREAKER differentiates
Full disclosure: It was not until very recently that I started to value the merits of wool, linen and cashmere, especially when it comes to high-end pieces manufactured with utmost care with the outcomes being tangible in terms of comfort, elegance, softness and moisture wicking insulation.
However, once I licked blood and tumbled down the rabbit hole of related offerings, I found the wool and fibre market increasingly difficult to navigate due to large discrepancies in both quality and price tags.
After quite a bit of trial and error, my interest was piqued during a recent trip to Spain as through a local recommendation in Barcelona, I was made aware of a co-op that has been not only been focussed on crafting wonderfully imperfect textiles for close to forty years but has since its inception made the social integration of people with learning difficulties and at risk of social inclusion their key tenet.
Teixidors’ operations are centred around the manual loom, at which a person with a disability is trained to become an expert with an incredible capability to transform high quality raw materials such as cashmere and Merino wool into exquisite and unique blankets and shawls, the result of which is eventually being taken to market through some of the most exclusive stores on this earthround.
With the art of weaving requiring constant interaction by the weaver, an unwavering focus on the task at hand to count the passes of the shuttle and the ability to coordinate the movement of at times up to six different treadles to measure the pressure of the beater on the warp and weft, it goes without saying that these are skills that take years to perfect.
Via the precise movements and meticulous skills developed by the weaver, fibres are transformed into idiosyncratic handwoven pieces: There is a musical poetry to the process as the loom moves in unison with the vibe and energy of its operator, who subtly interchanges rhythms, ultimately translating into a permanent crossing of threads, leaving a stamp of individuality on each piece woven.
With sustainability, traceability of materials and environmental impact being at the core of Teixidors’ DNA, they work with a singular farmer in the Provence region of France and buy his entire production of wool on an annual basis, which is then washed and combed at a GOTS certified facility before Teixidors makes its own yarn in their workshop.
More exotic source materials like Yak wool and cashmere are sourced from co-operatives in Mongolia that were started by Veterinaries Without Borders in a bid to secure fair salaries and responsible production in the region.
Avoiding the allure of using cheap materials and adding chemicals in the production process to manipulate the material into becoming softer and fluffier, Teixidors’ approach is informed by a well-calibrated formula balancing efficiency and profitability, thereby bringing out the very best in natural materials by using ecological soap, water and time, i.e. washing each pieces individually by hand.
In essence, Teixidors is an example par excellence for using their constraints and limitations as a strength for a market segment that desires a unique product – and doing good along the way.
When I started icebreaker I was 24, broke and had absolutely no idea what I was doing.
A chance meeting with a merino sheep farmer had sparked something inside me, a passion. From that moment I was hooked on the possibilities of natural solutions to technical apparel. Starting out was hard. Those years were pure belief and perseverance. Giving up never entered my mind for a moment. At the time, synthetics were king and wool was a non-contender.
Now over 20 years later, merino-based apparel is seducing wearers all over the world and we’re proud of the part we play in sharing the wonder and brilliance of the power of nature. Its beauty, resourcefulness and strength are qualities we are committed to and humbled by constantly.
Change of gear and location?
Inspired by what nature provides and a prototype of thermal underwear, Icebreaker has been channeling its alchemy in the realm of everything soft, silky and incredibly comfortable in the southwestern Pacific Ocean based on superfine wool shorn off the backs of merino sheep since 1995 and has since evolved to a veritable global player with flagship stores in Europe and the US.
If you are over unsustainable synthetic, plasticky outdoor fabrics - such as polyester and polypropylene – and are looking for a high performing natural merino fibre layering clothing system meant to keep you alive in the elements, you would be well advised to take note these Kiwi trailblazers.
Timeless and simple in terms of elegant designs, and designed around the philosophy of social ethics and sustainability, Icebreaker is pro-actively transcending single usage and with its multifunctional and purposeful pieces proves to be diametrically opposed to fast fashion.
With a focus on natural fibres as the key ingredient of its fabric composition, Icebreaker’s ‘top to toe’ layering system is enhanced by combining merino with other fibres, e.g. with a touch of Elastane to enhance garments in terms of stretch and comfort, thereby organically adapting to your life and style, be it dedicated collections focussed on outdoor activities like skiing and snowboarding in the wilderness, biking, urban environments or accessories that keep you cosy within the solitary confinement of your abode.
A favourite of the current Icebreaker collection includes the Merino Ainsworth Hooded Jacket which provides cool-weather warmth and a subtly understated stylish refuge from the elements.
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image from Teixidors website
