Blog — Page 168 of 283

Water of Life - Hartshorn

If you have remotely followed this series, you would know that I harbour more than a mere weak spot for all things originating from Tasmania, given the consistent quality that specifically tipples, and libations of that origin prove to uphold.

Boutique-y Hartshorn Distillery with their sheep whey-based Gin and Vodka fits into the ranks of those premium micro distilleries – and when I say “micro” here it is more than appropriate given that Hartshorn is making only small, unfiltered batches using a two hundred litre glass column still.

Aesthetically, Hartshorn is taking the DIY aesthetic to the next level: Each bottle’s artwork and label is created individually by hand and signed off by artisan head distiller Ryan after the foundation being spray-painted black. Talking of paying attention to detail and making each bottle truly unique.

Given the premium quality one has grown accustomed to when it comes to Tasmanian emission it is not further wondrous that Hartshorn’s sheep whey emissions are award decorated.

Let’s substantiate my praises for Hartshorn with a bit of history:

Artisanal in nature, the core business Hartshorn is associated with is Grandvewe Cheeses, which is the reason why quite a few of Hartshorn’s spirits are infused with the cheese by-product whey, the fermentation and distillation of which adds a subtle and delicious bouquet of sweet nuances and encapsulates the essence of Hartshorn: Character, flavour and intrigue.

I cannot claim to be an avid vodka drinker, but Hartshorn's Sheep Whey Vodka is something else: It is pure and creamy yet there is texture due to it being unfiltered, it is flavourful yet not overwhelmingly so. Despite a high ABV of 50% it lends itself well to having it neat and sipping away, a feat that cannot really be claimed for a lot of other vodkas as the margin to hide behind is minimal as opposed to other liquors.

The smooth finish is complemented by notes of spice and a crispness that still packs a tad of heat.

Not less spectacular is Hartshorn’s vapour infused sheep whey Gin. The vapour infusion adds a subtle bouquet as opposed to the steeped method that gins are usually produced with.

Again, not being big on gin, I must admit that this one won me over as there is a delicate intensity that makes it not only aromatic but lends itself perfectly well for sipping it neat, a feat that is achieved with the utilization of six unique native Australian botanicals adding their part to it.

Read more Water of Life entries here.

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Photo by T

Thus let us drink beer – Wildflower

There is certainly no shortage of Australian craft breweries. Head in general direction of Sydney’s Inner West and you will stumble across a myriad of offerings.

Most are good, few have something truly special to offer.

Wildflower belongs to the latter category.

Incepted by American expat and head brewer Topher Boehm and Australian brother in law Chris Allen, Wildflower’s approach is certainly idiosyncratic as they perceive themselves to be a blender rather than a brewery, with barrels being the vessels they channel and more importantly age their alchemy in, using natural wildly foraged yeast variations as their main agent for fermentation and sourcing the beer from their partners in crime Batch Brewing, the operations of which we have featured in a previous instalment.

In that sense, i.e. by paying homage to Australia’s fauna and flora, “Wildflower” is a telling name indeed and beer provided only the stage for yeast to unfold its distinct nuances.

What I love about Wildflower’s emissions is the Belgian influence along with the complex calibration that informs the genesis of their excellence Wild Ale expressions.

Wildflower’s portfolio is comprised of three variants, i.e. a gold, an amber and a table beer along with the occasional seasonal expression.

Needless to say, that with the unconventional way Wildflower produces its beers, it is limited in nature and nearly always sold out.

Taste-wise Wildflower’s hazily straw coloured Gold is an exercise par excellence is crisp tartness, while its darker brother, the Amber expression with its thick creamy head, is subtly funky in the best way imaginable, hints of cherry and cranberries, and with its enhanced yet nuanced spiciness due to bacterial cultures used is the near ideal companion for an Islay whisky.

In some respects, and in the best ways possible, i.e. in that it is a great accompaniment to food, I find Wildflower reminiscent of Two Metre Tall, a Tasmanian brewery I came across at last year’s Dark Mofo festival and one that we shall feature in a separate instalment.

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Photo by T

Water of Life – Timboon Distillery

I am in love.

But first things first:

Timboon is a community in Victoria, Australia where in the nineteenth century a rogue by the name of Tom Delaney channelled his alchemy into the production of distilled goods.

Folklore has that the bootleg operation was soon to be eradicated by the powers that be under the guidance of one pernickety Detector named Christie, who eventually put an end to the distilling of whiskey in the region.

Timboon’s operations not only pay homage to Delaney’s legacy but with its multi-faceted operations that include a restaurant and bar and an astute sense of place, put the region back on the world map when it comes to the creation of fantastic whiskies.

Timboon Distillery had not been on my radar until a trusted water of life connoisseur recommended them to me and boy, had I missed out.

The alchemy Josh Walker and his worthy constituents channel in their copper pot still and the resulting single malt whiskey is something else. Resting on a sound foundation of what the Scottish isles have to offer, Timboon infuse their small batch emissions with their very own DNA that catapulted them instantly to the forefront of my favourite Australian distilleries.

Case in point, Timboon’s Chrissy’s Cut.

Yup, it is award decorated like many other whiskeys but this one does not make you wonder why. At cask strength this babyh has a finish that is so complex and elongated preceded by spicy notes and a hint of smoke that is so carefully calibrated that it sings.

I very much like their gold coloured Port Expression, which is a solid melange of vanilla, berries and caramel with a fruity palate and the imprint of char, but Chrissy’s Cut remains unrivalled.

Christie’s Cut has taken the Port Expression to the next level. An intense yet still subtle smorgasbord of flavours – sounds oxymoronic? Well, you clearly have not had the chance to sample it.

There are whiskies that make great after dinner deserts, nightcaps, et cetera – with Christie’ Cuts I’d find myself hard-pressed to find a time when it would not be a delight to sit with.

A visit to Timboon Distillery has become mandatory and been firmly placed on my to-do list.

Read more Water of Life entries here.

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Photo provided

Water of Life - Mount Gay

Lord Byron claimed that there is naught so much the spirit calms as rum and true religion. While I concur with Karl Marx who has attested to the calming effect of religion, i.e. declaring it as opium for the masses, I am new to the world of rum and have at times to be convinced of why I would find similar enjoyment in indulging in it as I do with whisky.

Tonight’s centre of attention were the emissions of one of the oldest existing rum houses, i.e. Mount Gay rum, a distillery based in Barbados and known for pioneering the use of double copper pot stills, whose Eclipse expression - named not only after the phenomenon of a solar eclipse but also a reference to the the passage of Halley's comet in 1910 – was introduced after an excellence daiquiri that was based on the silver expression.

Mount Gay’s Eclipse hits you with an array of flowery notes and the hints of vanilla create a seamless transition to the fruity nuances that unfold once it hits your palate before it exits through a spicy and oaky alley. Not overly complex yet with its creamy molasses, light-bodied viscosity and aged for up to two years in Kentucky oak ex-bourbon barrels quite nice as a sipper and as a utility rum and I’d imagine this to be the perfect adage to a good cup of tea or as an adult beverage after dinner.

Next up was Mount Gay’s Black Barrell, which as per the expression’s telling name, has been aged in heavily charred bourbon barrels. On the nose the bourbon barrels’ impact hits you first in the best way possible with a rich and warm melange of creamy vanilla, sultanas and hints of pepper. More vanilla finds itself on the palate, complemented by cinnamon and other spicy notes, before it culminates in a well-balanced, looping finish that can be best described in an extended hybrid of the notes.

A gorgeous, spicy and earthy rum with a thick creamy mouthfeel and definitely a step up from the Eclipse.

Completing the troika of tonight’s offerings was Mount Gay’s XO, i.e. “extra old” as it has been aged between eight and fifteen years in ex-bourbon barrels. Now, we are talking: Upon the first sip the borderline perfect balance of dryness and sweetness, wood and salivation won me over. Almost too smooth with its cinnamon-esque wood aroma, this is one distinguished rum that with its warmth goes down a treat. Paired with dessert, the fruity character of the XO was even more amplified.

If you harbour a weak spot for Glenmorangie’s Quinta Ruban Cask expression, this smooth yet robust one is the rum you want to try.

Now, having had the trio of the three rums was a nice introduction to what Mount Gay has to offer, however, it was to be topped by an epic expression that pretty much encapsulates the essence of the nexus between excellence in rum distilling and the craftmanship that Islay whiskies are known for: 

Mount Gay’s XO limited edition single blended Peated expression – a drop that after having been matured for eight to fifteen years in bourbon barrels, then gets its refined edge through a finish based on maturation in Islay peated whisky casks from Port Charlotte distillery.

Sounds like some serious rum / whisky crossover porn? Well, it does not only sound like it. It starts with the presentation, as the flask shaped bottle is housed in a wooden box.

Amber-mahogany in colour, this is one fruity, nutty rum number resting on a well-made bed of vanilla and fruity notes, clocking in at 57% that is serenaded by the trademark salty and smoky notes from the peated whisky casks.

What a velvety balance.

Salt.

Caramel.

Peat.

Banana.

Vanilla.

 Peppers.

Pineapple with a smoke finish that is subtle and simply amazing.

Have you started salivating yet? Well, you should . . .

A rich, superb and complex special edition indeed that proves to be an extension of Mount Gay’s excellent core range and one that grows with each sip.

The Mount Gay tasting was hosted at The Forgotten Cask, a Rum Bar & Kitchen on the rooftop of the Cauliflower hotel in Sydney’s Waterloo. If you ever find yourself in town, the bold and flavourful sustenance coming up from the kitchen along with the tiki inspired tropical décor that frames the over ninety rums and spirits on offer prove to be an enjoyable location to either be educated by the engaging staff’s rum expertise as well as a casual drink.

Read more Water of Life entries here.

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Photos by @k.a.vv

Good Music - What It Is and Who Gets to Decide

John J. Sheinbaum

Now that’s a good question, innit?

What constitutes “good music”?

Is it possible to designate, rank and classify music objectively?

What is the criteria?

Traditional ones? Can they be applied to artists and their emissions through time?  Does it apply to Beethoven in the same manner as to Drake and Black Sabbath?

John Sheinbaum starts off by elaborating on how music has been traditionally classified as good or bad before he ventures out to outline his own idiosyncratic framework for assessing music – one that does not subject itself to the dictatorship of categorization and one that deliberately transcends Schubladendenken, styles, moods or genre specific confines.

As the centre of Sheinbaum’s value system is simply the joy both of making music as well as the result on the recipient’s end – the ultimate common denominator.

Sheinbaum masterfully questions values, definitions and perceptions and lets the reader come to his / her own conclusions as he meanders his theories revolving around musical themes like deepness, unification, authenticity, originality, heroicness, connectivity and seriousness.

The merit of Sheinbaum’s emissions and what makes the book a never not enjoyable read lies in his compassionate and humane approach that is not only enthusiastic and optimistic in nature but challenges mainstream conceptions and the way we blindly follow along outworn traditions.

A recommendation for any music enthusiast and anyone who falls prey to the notion that one composer or musical style is superior to others.