Blog — Page 154 of 282

Prime Movers: From Pericles to Gandhi

Simon and Schuster

Needless to say that each of us would have a list of what we would deem to be influential thinkers.

Fair enough.

Ferdinant Mount zeros in on his top twelve political thinker and does it with an accuracy and clarity that makes it a joy to read: Pericles, Jesus, Rousseau, Smith, Burke, Jefferson, Bentham, Wollstonecraft, Mazzini, Marx, Gandhi and Iqbal are shed light on en detail and not merely praised but analysed with at times surgical precision that does not spare the objectionable parts – be it Karl Marx’ shortcomings when it comes to clearly articulating a theoretical construct that labourers could turn into reality and his racists views shared with Engels, Jefferson’ s inability to overcome slavery, Rousseau’s deficits regarding thinking through the consequences of his emissions and so forth.

Mount manages to question what has been blindly accepted to be gospel in the mainstream canon of knighted luminaries – be it in terms of lacking accuracy, not considering the implications of their preachings or the fact that only parts of their respective oeuvre were highlighted which led to them being elevated to a status the totality of their deeds would not warrant.

The specifically interesting parts pertain to thinkers who are held in high esteem for their boundary pushing ideas while merely having theoretical knowledge of the subjects of their treatises, e.g. celibates talking about free sexual relations or the abusive Gandhi harping on about love and being adamant about India having to return to village life despite having always been a big city dweller.

While some of Mount’s elaborations do not exactly present new revelations, I would recommend this tome to anyone looking for food of thought and ideas to challenge the status quo and established perceptions.

To err is human and Prime Movers is an example par excellence and a reminder in book form that the perceived spearheads and thought leaders of humanity are often equally as flawed as the common man, yet have shaped the world we live in.

An intriguing and illuminating efficiently written and inspiring read.

Question everything.

Water of Life – The Canberra Distillery

Again, despite being the capital of Australia, I have never felt the urge to visit – that has recently changed as more and more high-quality small batch distilleries emerge that are unconstrained by the need to produce volume and can focus on quality.

Case in point: The Canberra Distillery, which with its name puts the underrated city firmly and squarely on the radar of connoisseurs of artisanal spirits.  Focusing on raw ingredients, every step of the production process is “manu”factured in the truest sense if you by the etymology of the etymology of the word, i.e. the processing, distilling and bottling is performed by hand, which allows them to zero in on the sweet alcohols that lie hidden in the middle of these lesser alcohols that emerge in the distilling process.

What results are exquisite gins that are informed by a smooth palate with balancing botanical infusion. The line-up includes classic vapour-infused London dry-style gins, which convince with the subtlety of the flavours derived from the hand-selected citrus and berry additions.

A personal favourite is the nuanced Negroni. Not that I am known for shying away from any halfway well-done barrel aged Gin distilled from wine spirit, but the Canberra Distillery’s Barrel Aged Negroni adds another layer of complexity by using an exquisite red from the Canberra region as a basis, which is then distilled with juniper and an array of other herbs. After blending it with vermouth and bitters, it is then aged with heavily charred oak, to round out the nuances of this nectar. Delicious!

Consider yourself somewhat of a gin aficionado?

Well, you have not lived until you have sampled the Canberra Distillery’s French Earl Grey Gin. Apart from the novelty of it being a colour-changing elixir, the concept pretty much allows you to indulge whenever you would normally have a cup of tea. Neat!

With gin distilleries mushrooming around Australia, I am no stranger to experiments with exotic botanicals but the balance that has been created with bergamot, elderflower, chamomile and lavender in this case is something else.

Word is that due to their conscious production process, all bottlings are extremely limited and you would want to contact the distillery directly to ascertain if any will be available on your turf as there seem to be plans for overseas expansion.

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photos provided

Water of Life – Underground Spirits Canberra

There are busier and more happening cities than what has been chosen to become the capital of terra australis. Canberra is certainly embedded in a picturesque countryside and given the wholesome context, it is not further wondrous that it serves as fertile ground for sophisticated quality distilleries not unlike Underground Spirit to emerge.

Sourcing their local sustainably grown New South Wales Wheat and water from the Brindabella Mountains which is purified through reverse osmosis, the trademark of the distillery manifests itself post-distilling, specifically for their vodka: Their liquid emissions are being cryofiltered, i.e. a process conducted under extremely low temperatures, which enables the extraction of nano impurities and results in unsurpassed purity.

The gin range gets its Underground Spirits character not only through the aforementioned process of cryofiltration but also through maceration, the infusion of vapour and the addition of tinctures which create the canvas for the respective finely balanced botanicals, e.g. the dominating component Juniper, Coriander Seed and Angelia Root along with other native ones, to unfold their nuances.

Underground Spirits’ signature gin is a sippable one of citrussy and spicy notes.

The Shiraz Gin with Tasmanian Pepperberries takes things up a notch or two. Based on the foundation of the signature gin, Tasmanian Pepperberries take the centerstage of the distillate, which is matured in locally sourced Shiraz oak barrels for two months before being made available to the public.

Specifically, the Shiraz barrels add a spiciness that sits on a bed of vanilla and fruity flavours reminiscent of a good white wine.

It is allowed to dominate the blend before maturing in Shiraz oak barrels sourced from local winemakers for two months. The results are a remarkable uniqueness of each batch derived from the individual flavour qualities of each barrel. This is an absolute modern classic with a warm and delectable finish.

The entity known as Underground Spirits is one to watch – not merely because of their medical grade filtration system and dedication to purity of their products, but the well-calibrated flavour nuances informed by regional botanicals that make both their gins and vodkas smoooth, sippable and easy on the palate.

No matter how you usually have your gins or vodka, in this case it would be blasphemous to not have them neat, specifically the vodka, which is one of the most pleasant ones I have had with no lingering flavours and delicate hints of pepper.

The gins will convince any fan of the classic styled ones from the old world and it’d be difficult to imagine that the subtle nuances that Underground Spirits infused it with would not make this one a new favourite go-to.

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photo provided

Water of Life

Launch of Highlander Whisky Bar and Bunnahabhain

My first and long overdue encounter with Bunnahabhain was at the recent opening of the Highlander Whisky Bar at the Sir Stamford Hotel at Circular Quay, an establissement that has established itself as the home of whisky shows and related events, where it was recommended to me over a dispute of the merits of Islay whiskies.

Whisky Bars are mushrooming in Sydney yet the Highlander Bar has an edge with owner of renowned Alchemist Events and founder of the emporium known as World of Whisky, whisky luminary and conferencier par excellence David Ligoff having been at the helm when it came to curating the bar and its special offerings, e.g. a bespoke Whisky High Tea, with savoury and whisky infused sweet treats accompanied by a flight of the Chivas range, along with a ‘Whisky of the Month’ proffering rare and limited bottlings and bi- monthly Whisky Masterclasses with witty as Wilde themed tastings aimed to both educate and entertain – which they sure will as they will be conducted b whisky connoisseur David Ligoff himself.

Highlander Bar will for sure became a go-to third place – no matter if you are local or visiting from overseas - with its inviting ambience and portfolio of unique whiskies, many of which have never been tasted before on terra australis.

Now, Bunnahabhain – founded in 1881 and one of the great Islay eight I have not been exposed to, which upon the second sip of its 12 Years Old proved to be a shame. A wonderful atypical Islay drop as it does not rely on peat, which the whiskies from the Hebridean are usually known for.

Clocking in at 46.3%, non-chill filtered and natural in colour, it is surprisingly smooth and as soon as the nostrils are tickled by its dark fruit aromas and orangey chocolate notes, it elicits a Pavlovian response.

What materializes on the palate takes things to the next level, with the malty undertones of the oily mouthfeel being serenaded by apple, saline coastal and sherry notes and just a hint of subtle smokiness, of which we get more with the elongated finish that mixes in a bit of char and a nice melange of fruity spices.

A light-bodied yet nicely rounded complex expression from Islay, which benefits from the Sherry cask maturation and one that would serve as a great introduction to anyone who grapples with peatiness.  Ideal for an after-dinner dram.

Intrigued by the 12-Year-Old, I ventured on to a fairly new Bunnahabhain expression going under the Gaelic guise of Stiùireadair. An homage to the distillery’s shoreline, it is not unlike the 12-Year-Old bottled at 46.3% after having been matured in first and second fill Sherry casks.

On the nose there are sugary raisiney blackberry notes that with its malty core form a nice melange with the maritime character that forms the DNA of this drop, which pervades through to the palate in a warm manner, where nutty honey nuances meet hints of spicy cinnamon, spirity notes and sea salt.

The creamy finish is where things are taken up a notch as the Sherry casks shine through and what lingers is an exquisitely delicate chilli-chocolate character, that leaves one lusting for another dram.

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Photos by T

Water of Life – ArteNOM

Now, if you care for Tequila a tad more than shooting it, there are worlds to discover once you delve beyond the mainstream offerings that are crowding the shelves of your spirits dealer of choice. The beauty with Tequila is that contrary to other spirits, it is one of the most regulated alcoholic beverages there is, i.e. not only does it have to evolve from defined regional territory in Mexico and it also has to be extracted from Blue Webber Agave to be classified as such.

ArteNOM is a Tequila brand that I had not been exposed to prior to a Masterclass at Sydney’s go-to Tequila bar and restaurant Tequila Mockingbird, the curation of which ensures that its audience are only authentic quality spirits and a cuisine that proves to be exceptional, no matter if you are preferring Mexican fare or not.

An example of their expertise when it comes to cocktails was the Classic Margherita that was proffered as an aperitif. Carefully calibrated, it had a depth and character that is often overpowered by one ingredient if mixed by less skilled hands. Beautiful.

What makes ArteNOM different in their approach is that they are sourcing tequila from a range of different distilleries to then showcase the idiosyncratic DNA of the respective house with their expressions. Mauro Ribeiro of Cerbaco Distribution, who hosted the Cinco de Mayo Tequila masterclass, elaborated on the curation process, which is not only focussed on distilleries of distinct villages but is also informed by the altitude the respective agaves used have been grown – a factor that determines subtle flavour nuances.

Tequila ArteNOM Seleccion de 1579 Blanco Tequila is one of the highland Tequilas and the aroma tickles the nostrils with a pleasant waft of roasted agaves along with fruitier notes, think pineapple.

What hits the palate, what the nose promised is being continued whoever we now enter piquant territory along with hints of lime, which makes things interesting. The dry finish marries both spiciness and fruitiness with vegetal undertones. One nice sipping Tequila and one that made me excited about the other expressions that were to come.

Tequila Mockingbird’s cocktail interpretation of it materialized in form of a Puesta del Sol, which, being an Aperol aficionado, hit the spot exquisitely and matched with salmon gravlax, grapefruit mejunjie, pickled cucumber and aji rojo, a delight to behold – a feast both for the eyes and the palate.

Tequila ArteNOM Seleccion de 1414 Reposado Tequila is another highland one, however, it takes things up a notch or two. The fact that is has been aged in ex-Bourbon casks gives it a nice oaky nose and the trademark highland roasted agaves notes are complimented by hints of vanilla and white pepper. I found the Reposado to be spicier on the palate, which is expertly balanced by citrussy flavours. A major point of difference to the Blanco is the elongated finish, which serenades the palate with spiciness and underlines the Reposados bold characteristics. Nice.

Tequila Mockingbird used it as an ingredient for a rich Capitan de Coco cocktail, which was counteracted by a crispy pork belly al pastor taco, chipotle, crema ranchera and charred pineapple. The marriage of both was an example par excellence of how the chefs of the day not only set the stage for the Tequilas as with the other courses, but also expertly complemented different flavours to enrich the experience.

So far, so good.

Tequila ArteNOM Seleccion is a lowland Tequila and while the first two did not disappoint, things are getting way more sophisticated to which the fact that it is comprised of different Tequilas, aged individually for in between two to three years in different French Oak Casks, with the hybrid being matured for another year in ex-Bourbon casks certainly contributes.

Given the aforementioned, it is not further wondrous that he golden drop rests of a solid canvas of oakiness on which roasted agaves, chocolatey nuances and raisins unfold their characteristics. There is spice on the palate as are more delicate vegetal flavours, none of which overpowers the other. A masterstroke in calibrating seemingly opposed worlds and while I have yet to come across an arteNOM expression I would not enjoy sipping on, the Reposado is one to sit down with and dedicate ample time to.

Tequila Mockingbird created a Choc Vanilla Old Fashioned with it, which was substantiated with an espresso rubbed wagyu picanha – a course which not only the previous one showcased the excellent cuisine of Sydney’s go-to South American infused etablissement but also the craft that underpins the expertise of their mixologists.

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Photos by @k.a.vv