Thus Let Us Drink Beer

Akasha Roundup

If you follow this series, our appreciation of the Akasha Brewing Company should not come as a surprise, given their love for hopped out, accessible American varieties. 

Akasha’s rebranding two years ago further accentuated their approach by incorporating their loves for hops even into the visual aspects of their logo and, much to my delight, the launch of Akasha Projects, which serves as a launch pad to release experimental, limited releases for connoisseurs and hop forward beer aficionados.

Needless to say, there is always a sense of excitement when new Akasha Projects drop, let alone when the name alone suggests a classic release like the IIPA homage to the West Coast and Dr Dre, i.e. The Chronic.

Bright golden in appearance, the nostrils are tickled upon approach by tropical yet sweet aromas with hints of melon scents mixed with pineapple and orange oil. The flavour profile of this little number is comprised of resinous piney, citrussy and delicate molasses informed notes, which dance against a backbone of solid bitterness and only the faintest touch of malt. 

Paying homage to Shakespeare’s star crossed lovers, Akasha’s Romeo & Juliet DIPA sees Akasha Projects marrying East and West Coast Styles and excelling at that: In flavour territories where opposing individual aspects could easily cancel each other out, this well-calibrated experimental brew allows for both bitter and tropical bits to shine. 

A slowly building bitterness and warming alcohol notes rest on a foundation of floral and tart sweetness, which is counterpointed by a wonderfully dank, spikey herbal piquancy.

Akasha’s Wooden Leg is a Triple IPA that has become an unrivalled classic in its realm of turning things to 11, not just with the 10.5% ABV but with the best the trio comprised of Centennial, Amarillo and Simcoe hops have to offer and set in scene by malty caramel and a mild bitterness.

Compared to the aforementioned variants, The Shape of Hops to Come is a relatively tame hazy IPA, with the melange of Citra, El Dorado and Azacca hops resulting in a fruit forward, tart lemon informed flavour profile.

Lupulin Fog is one of my favourites when it comes to riffing on the New England approach to IPAs: Focused on the fruitier spectrum of hops, overripe passionfruit, guava, papaya, mango and pineapple reign supreme and render bitter flavours secondary.

Delish.

Nowhereman

Given that I have yet so sample a craft beer from Western Australia that I have not enjoyed, I am always intrigued when a new brewery pops up on my radar, especially if the brewery in question has been around for five years yet I somehow did not manage to visit them during the last times I held court in Perth.

My first exposure to Nowhereman was not via their no doubt excellent core range but through a limited release that has been brewed with half a ton of fresh local blueberries and an adage of of oak chips. 

What sounds exotic pours visually interesting a strikingly purple hue topped with pink foam  and unveils a complex sweet taste with just a hint of acid and sour notes dancing on a solid backbone of oak, maple syrup and vanilla notes. Culminating in the driest of finishes,  reverberating peppery and slightly astringent notes leave one lusting for more.

Clocking in at an ABV of 7.6% ABV, it makes the perfect companion for a dram of a smoky Islay whisky.

Stepping things up a notch or three is the heavy hitter that goes by the telling name 
Mr Otter’s Barley Wine . 

Apparently I have missed two previous incarnations of this premium limited release that proves to be as expected rich, boozy and flavourful: Toffee, raisiny, nutty, toasty oak flavours with hints of biscuit are rounded out by a balanced fruitiness that leans heavy on the hops.

While boozier than most beer with a veritable 11% ABV, Mr Otter’s Barley Wine leans much heavier on malt flavours than hops and is a surprisingly smooth affair that goes down a treat during colder months.

Given the quality of what I have tasted so far from Nowhereman, I can only hope that they are planning to dabble in IIPAs.

The Formative Years - Antisect 

In terms of marrying early anarcho punk with metal elements, Antisect’s “In Darkness There Is No Choice” and especially their “Out from the Void” 7” changed what was perceived to be possible and palatable as early as 1983 and created a new sound that left an imprint on heavy music at large.

Lyrically centred around concepts of fairness in relations between individuals in society and equal access to wealth, opportunities, social privileges as well as advocating sentient animals having moral worth that is independent of their utility for humans, Antisect was one of the more active bands of their time as they toured extensively with their fast, Motörhead inspired D-beat style of hardcore punk. 

Fronted by two ferocious and viciously attacking vocalists taking turns, their tuned down brand of fast cadenced hardcore punk proved to be a consistent wall of sound rather than a mere conglomerate of individual instrumental components.

Never resting on their laurels, once having perfectioned their style, Antisect started to riff on and experiment with it, playing with speed variations, choral interludes and compositions reminiscent of classical pieces along with echo drowned sermons.

Summa summarum, an essential band that created radical, mesmerising and idiosyncratically powerful hardcore punk with an unrivalled intensity, further accentuated by an underlying mood of horror and outrage.

Bernie Dieter’s Club Kabarett
Spiegeltent
Sydney, Australia
10 September 2022

After raving reviews that resonated left, right and centre of Germany’s queen of cabaret incarnations over the last years, it was about high time for us to check out Bernie Dieter and her debauched spectacular ourselves in the third dimension to ascertain what the hype was all about, and what could be a better context to see her Club Kabarett holding court than in the pop-up Spiegeltent at the juncture of scenic Circular Quay and the Rocks as part of the annual arts extravaganza that is the Sydney Fringe Festival.

In essence, the way Bernie Dieter channels her alchemy results in a veritable tour de force of carefully curated sideshow acts ranging from borderline circus-worthy aerial exercises to provocative gender-bending raunchy burlesque performances, all of which are framed and contextualised by what could be described as a soundtrack sourced directly from a Weimar-era jazz den courtesy of her accompanying 4-piece bands, aptly and tellingly named “Die Vier”.

Informed by a deliciously mischievous energy and inimitable charm with characteristics reminiscent of Ute Lemper, Marlene Dietrich and elements that seem to be derived from the Rocky Horror Picture Show, Bernie Dieter effortlessly commands the stage, tantalises the audience, shares anecdotes with her trademark tongue-in-cheek humour and manages to present an evening that feels like a glorious mosaic of freaks and weirdos contributing to a holistic, inclusive and life-affirming whole.

Directly and masterfully engaging the audience with her quick, stimulating wit without ever running danger of making fun of individuals and serenading the audience with bawdy ballads displaying her impressive vocal range, Bernie Dieter’s Club Kabarett proved to be an immensely enjoyable immersive evening of pure escapism with enthralling cabaret and a celebration of diversity, hilarity and the freedom of the arts at large.

An outrageous, fast paced, ribald and boundary pushing show aimed at open-minded audiences that is bound to bewilder and drop jaws.

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photo courtesy of Sydney Fringe Festival

Water of Life

Father’s Day with Glenmorangie and Ardbeg 

When it comes to whisky bars in Australia, specifically within the confines of New South Wales, there are few that play in the same league as The Baxter Inn. 

Pearl in the crown of the Swillhouse Venue Group, over the last twelve years the attention to detail, curation of rare bottlings and unwavering devotion to hospitality has not only established the venue as a veritable heavyweight on the firmament of whisky bars, but created a culture that seems to organically attract like-minded, intrinsically motivated staff.  

After all, every great experience starts and finishes with the people representing it, a thought that allows a seamless transition to Kurtis Bosley, who after having emerged as one of the more innovative figures within the confines of Sydney’s bar management scene, has recently commenced as the face of LVMH’s award-decorated whisky brands portfolio on terra australis.

Given that there was a rather sad time when The Baxter Inn had an Ardbeg / Glenmorangie shaped whole in their backbar, it was fantastic to see an exclusive Father’s Day tasting eventuating, emceed by a knowledgeable and highly engaging maverick of a brand ambassador with an infectious passion for turning education into fun experiences to ignite the imagination of both aficionados as well as the uninitiated.

After easing into the proceedings with a cocktail proffered by the very team that has recently been granted the highly covered Whisky Bar of 2022 award, we were off to the races to sample the emissions of Scotland’s tallest stills. 

With a bold branding strategy that saw the introduction of French terminology along with elegantly designed curvaceous bottles, the toponym Glenmorangie has over the last eighteen years significantly increased its appeal in the overseas luxury goods market and given that I had not been overly familiar with its expressions, I was looking forward to be wowed.

The common denominator of Glenmorangie can be simmered down to all of their variants first undergoing maturation in white oak casks that are specifically sourced and manufactured in the Ozarks. 

After letting them air for two years and leasing them out to local distilleries to mature their Bourbon in them, Glenmorangie then uses them to finetune the tail end of the maturation process, with the core expression (yup, the one that Conner MacLeod ordered a double of in Highlander) maturing entirely in ex-bourbon casks, while the Extra Matured range are being finished in a range of sherry, wine and port casks.

Glenmorangie’s 10 Year Old flagship single malt proves to be an exercise par excellence when it comes to easily accessible aperitifs: On approach the nostrils are tickled by a luxurious avalanche of lemony, fruity and slightly floral notes, vetiver and a bramble of berries, rounded out with spicy highlights.

On the palate, the creamy texture unveils honeyed vanilla, butterscotch and strong black coffee nuances, culminating in a mid-length fruity and malty finish. 

A reliable and accessible go-to dram for beginners and enthusiasts alike. 

Glenmorangie Quinta 14 Year Old is an example of the Extra Matured range and has enjoyed a palpable Port cask finish expression, which imparts waves of scrumptious fruit and chocolate notes to the spirit. The result is a borderline ideal candidate for the perfect postprandial dram (and counterpart to the Ten Year Old aperitif), given the complex fruity tarty, chocolate mousey and toasted almond informed flavour profile, which climxes in a crescendo of tart blueberries and dark chocolate. 

Next up was one of Glenmorangie’s premium expressions and one that I have been wanting to try for the longest time, i.e. Signet, which in terms of the malted barley used is a hybrid between the single estate Cad boll variety and malted chocolate barley, the latter of which is better known as a basis for craft beers. 

Distilled twice through Glenmorangie's tall copper-pot stills, it is fabled to be comprised of rare stocks. Housed in one of the more ornate and visually appealing whisky bottles on this earthround, the nose tantalizes with chocolate raisins and sugared mixed peels. 
Toasted spices, bread and butter pudding and golden syrup complement the aforementioned aromas, while a note of Angostura bitters lingers hidden underneath.

On the top of the mouth, cinnamon and chocolatey orange notes dance against a backdrop of honeyed peanuts, delicate smoke and freshly roasted espresso beans.

The seductive, elongated finish leaves on lusting for another dram and makes one relate to whisky luminary Dr. Bill Lumsden’s claim that the Signet is the accomplishment of a "lifetime of experimentation and innovation". 

So far, so good.

Let’s take a stroll down along the winding road from Port Ellen on the Isle of Islay and move on to a Hebridean distillery that produces some of my favourite expressions in the realm of heavily peated Malts that are focussed around aromas of spices and sweet tones like vanilla and chocolate.

Having had a chance to see Ardbeg’s former head distiller "Mickey" Heads channel his alchemy in the third dimension and spending time at Ardbeg’s cottage on Islay has only intensified my love for their exquisite emissions, with the liquid homage to the lake that is the water source for the distillery, i.e. Uigedail, and the cask strength Corryvreckan being favourites when it comes to finding companions to complete a Boilermaker with a resinous, hopped out IPA.

On offer tonight was a carefully calibrated vertically arranged tasting with the youthful Wee Beastie chosen to be the first cab off the rank. 

Due to having been bottled up at less than six years, it has punchy peaty nuances sitting at the front and centre.

While the age statement could have one think that we are dealing with a blunt and uncomplex drop, it could not be further from the truth: 

Once softened by air, damp, earthy and musty bonfire aromas evoke a borderline Pavlovian response as they blend in with waves of vegetal smoke, which is pervaded by highlights of vanilla sweetness and black peppery spice.

What the nose promises, finds a seamless transition to the palate in that dry wood smoke provides the stage on which delicately tart dark berries dance intimately with coal tar and hints of salted caramel.

The elongated finish reverberates with an oily mouthfeel, unfolding a hybrid of dominant smoke and a tangy citrus taste.

Next up was Ardbeg’s 2022 Ardcore release, which in terms of the punk tinged marketing it was presented with, was an interesting exercise with love and attention to detail down to curated, quite catchy Spotify playlist to serenade the experience of tasting what was portrayed to be equivalent of "biting a spiky ball". 

Despite the hyperbolic advertising, I found this little number to be rather tame and accessible. 

While sensing smoky or burning smells can be common types of phantosmia, having a dram of Ardcore in front of you could be the explanation as notes of zesty grapefruit, minty fresh scents and a seductive core of tarry peat reign supreme on a foundation of burnt toast.

Roasted barley dominates the palate, backed by ashy peat, honeyed vanilla, liquorice root, fennel and caraway, with the finish exhibiting a distinctly earthy, slightly spicy character further enhanced by sandalwood and cloves.

The tasting culminated with an Ardbeg expression that was originally released during Fèis Ìle 2015 in celebration of the distillery’s 200th anniversary. 

Ardbeg’s Perpetuum embodies everything I love about the distillery and the creations of Dr. Bill Lumsden: A full-bodied drop, rich in coastal peat, smoked meat flavours and well-rounded vanilla notes, with the blend having matured in a carefully curated mix of Bourbon and Sherry casks. 

In some aspects the Perpetuum expression tastes like a notch up from the 10 Year Old in that the nose is a bit subdued in the smoke department to allow chocolatey and dried fruity aromas to take on centre stage.

What I love about the Perpetuum is that one can taste the influence of the Bourbon casks upfront in that a peppery and chilli informed piquancy frames and accentuates the peat smoke, which results in an intriguing melange of Ardbeg's signature smokiness and dominant sweet and fruity notes. 

An interesting experiment in venturing a bit away from the DNA Ardbeg is known for towards territory that e.g. Laphroaig’s Cairdeas excels in.

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photos by @k.a.vv

Water of Life

Cape Byron Distillery launches whisky with Jim McEwan

When we first got to sample Cape Byron’s emissions in the realm of gin six years ago, we fell in love instantaneously. 

Distilled in a rainforest and featuring twenty-five native botanicals,  the lion’s share of which stemming from the luscious surrounding of the distillery, it made Brookie's Dry Gin stand out from other Australian gin expressions.

Upon approach the nostrils were tickled by a melange of coriander and juniper dancing against a backdrop of delicate citrus notes. On the top of the mouth raspberry, aniseed myrtle and macadamia nuances were married only to then culminate in spicy, peppery notes. All carried by a thick, luxurious mouthfeel, I enjoyed it neat as I felt that the adage of Tonic would only dilute the delicate flavours.

As if their quality emissions and unique location in Byron Bay’s Hinterland were not enough, my interest was further piqued when I learned about Jim McEwan being a close family friend of the Brook family, known for not only having been the master distiller at Ardnahoe, Bowmore and also the man who helped to resuscitate Bruichladdich distillery and incepted my favourite whisky series, i.e. Octomore.

Needless to say, we were intrigued when we learned about Jim McEwan joining Eddie Brook for an evening of celebrations to launch Cape Byron’s first single malt release.

Easing into the proceedings with a signature Brookie’s G&T on arrival, attendants were treated to a curated tasting selection centred around what will be Cape Byron’s core release single malt, an exquisite Chardonnay cask expression along with an early taste of what is to become a banging and, given McEwan’s involvement, highly-anticipated peated expression.

Cape Byron Distllery’s core expression has been aged in a carefully curated selection of Bourbon casks, ranging from Woodford Reserve, Jack Daniels, Buffalo Trace to Jim Beam, so it should not come as a surprise that there are depths of vanilla flavours that serve as the foundation for pears, kiwi and lychee to shine from.

While in terms of climate Byron Bay is not remotely close to the island of Islay, the fact that Cape Byron Distillery is also located closely to the sea is an interesting parallel, which brings forth local equivalents in terms of infusing their drops with distinct local salinity.

The taste of the peated expression, which after further maturation of another eighteen years will hopefully see the light of day in early 2024, promises big things and I cannot wait to get my paws on it.

An interesting nuance was proffered via Mac. by Brookie’s, which is a premium liqueur with the flavour profile determined by roasted Macadamia nuts and toasted Wattle seed.  The result is a tour de force in the realm of nutty flavours, which clocking in at 30%  lends itself perfectly as a dessert sipper or to add cacao- and caramelly depth to your Espresso Martini.

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image from company website