Water of Life
Paul John Singles Malts
While it might not necessarily be on the radar of the common whisky connoisseur, India has evolved to become a veritable hotbed for sophisticated, maverick distilleries that change the perception of what great single malts can be.
Originally based in Bangalore, John Distilleries was originally known for molasses-based spirits, before it launched Paul John Single Malt ten years ago at a new location in the former Portuguese and party enclave of Goa on the west coast of India.
Given the unique tropical climate of the region, whisky matures not only at an accelerated pace but a phenomenon that could be best described as “angel’s share in reverse” takes place, i.e. the heat lets more H2O than alcohol evaporate and thereby results in a higher ABV.
Based on Himalayan six row barley, which is grown during the colder months and harvested in summer, Paul John’s Bold expression is a fully peated single malt variant, with the peat being sourced from the Hebridean island of Islay before it is used to dry the barley.
What tickles the nostrils upon approach are nuances of faintly sweet, singed barley, molasses, mildew, crisp apples and citrus.
On the palate, oaky honey serves as the foundation on which fruity and floral dance against a backdrop of peaty soot courtesy of the Islay peat, which blend in with hints of copper.
The finish is dominated by a peppery, prickly piquancy, which is rounded out by wafts of distant peat smoke. With an ABV of 46% a very nice sipper indeed.
Stepping things up a notch is Paul John’s Classic Single Malt, which after having been matured in ex-Bourbon casks for eight years is a cask strength expression, materialising in my Glencairn with an appealing golden hue.
The aromas evoke a Pavlovian responses with puff pastry, cinnamon sugar, brioche, butter and tropical nuances, interweaved by juicy pears and heathery, earthy honey.
On the palate, layers of orchard fruit unveil a rich, full bodied complexity with a borderline perfect equilibrium between spicy piquancy and honeyed vanilla sweetness, which is accentuated by toffee and oaky highlights.
The lingering finish reverberates with honeyed oak, spices and cinnamon, leaving one lusting for another dram.
So far, so good.
The pièce de résistance, however, is Paul John’ Peated Select Cask, which not unlike the aforementioned Classic expression dials in at cask strength.
The nose wins me over straight away with a bewitching aroma of earthy moss, nuts, mango, a tannic spiciness and petrichor.
Things get interesting on the palate with sweet, peaty, tangy and spicy components forming a melange reminiscent of barbeque meats set against hints of dark chocolate, tropical fruit juice, melons and pineapple.
Via the elongated, elegant finish vanilla meets melted caramel and fruit roasted on a barbeque.
Summa summarum, if you like whisky, especially of the peated variety, you would do yourself a disservice if you did not the masterfully calibrated expressions Paul John has to offer.
Timboon Distillery
Evolved from a farm contracting business and imbued with a sense of place, over the last seven years owner and distiller Josh Walker has established Timboon Railway Shed Distillery firmly on the ever expanding firmament of Australian quality small batch craft distilleries by focussing on quality over quantity with their malted barley based expressions and the spirits landscape at large with liqueurs, vodka, schnapps and limoncello also being part of Timboon’s portfolio.
Timboon’s Port Whisky Expression has been matured in a variety of American oak casks from Victoria, Rutherglen and Tasmania.
Golden in appearance, fruit cake, honeyed vanilla and blackberry aromas reel one in as they are enhanced by caramel, white musk, woody notes and dark chocolatey highlights.
Things get interesting on the palate as a delicate peppery piquancy is married with almonds, cocoa, blackcurrant, honeyed peaches and a wonderful layer of smoke, which reverberates with a hint of baked lemon tart.
The medium-length finish is an exercise par excellence in fruitiness ranging from almost cloyingly berry informed sweetness via crispy green apple sourness to tarty notes.
When it comes to premium small batch cask strength expressions on terra australis, there are few that play in the same league as Timboon’s Christie’s Cut.
Clocking in at 60% ABV, the ode to the era of illicit distilling and Inspector John Christie who at the turn of the nineteenth century tracked and captured Tom Delaney who was an illicit distiller in the Timboon area, is a tour de force in terms of bold complexity.
Aged for at least five years in ex-Port casks and reddish-brown in appearance, on the aroma front cocoa beans are entwined with creamy milk, fluffy musk, sensuous vanilla bean, rosewater and dried cranberries.
Spicy and peppery piquancy is the name of the game on the top of the mouth, flanked by oaky flavours and a juicy, tangy bitterness.
The sheer endless finish culminates in a fulminant crescendo of malt-forward port notes, raisins, pungent ripened fruits like strawberries and raspberries, as well as darker fruits such as blackcurrants and blackberries counterpointed by a wonderful hint of smoke and chestnuts.
Despite being big and boozy, a truly fantastic drop with a silky mouthfeel that still surprises with delicate nuances.
Given the quality of Timboon’s liquid emissions, it warrants a visit to their HQ to sample the expressions that are exclusive to the distillery.
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images from company websites
